Project 5 Speedway by Chicago Coin EM
I finally got tired of looking at this Speedway cabinet in my living room so over
a July 4th, 3 day weekend I decided by Monday I would have it finished.
I took some posterboard and made templates of one side(2 of them) I then
took tracing paper and glued it together in a big sheet to trace the
orange and black painted areas of the cabinet.
I was planning to strip the bad wood layer off the outside and
put a new veneer layer on it but once I pulled away the bad outter veneer
of the plywood the next layer was in such good condition that I hand sanded
it smooth, touched up bad spots with wood putty and painted it.
I then painted the cabinet and
as it was drying I made my templates by cutting out the patterns
for the orange and black parts of the graphics. It worked fairly well but
I had trouble keeping the posterboard tight against the sides. If I had
a better place to work I might have bought some 1/8" plywood and cut templates
out of that. I am sure that is how it was originally manufactured and it would
eleminate some overspray here and there. I did some touch up and you can
see from the picture how it turned out. Both sides totally restored.
There was a lot of touch up here and there, little fixes, cleaned bulb holders etc.
Tightened some springs that were not pulling hard enough and lubricating
everything with wd-40.
The 'crash' sound when the car crashes is actually a small microphone placed
near a metal sheet. When the car crashes a solenoid is triggered and slams
the metal sheet. The resulting sound can be heard through the front
speaker(this game has 4 transistors in it and all of
those are in the sound amplifier, no microprocessors, no memory chips).
The 'motor' sounds come from a fingered wheel on the road motor that
passes by a magnet but it does not seem to work yet. The amplifier does work
for the crash sounds quite well.
As I was working on this cabinet restoration I noticed some odd differences between
my cabinet and the brochure.
- My race car appeared to have been yellow which is what I restored it to, the
brochure shows red
- The stripes seem to be black over orange while my cabinet was orange over black
but it also appears the brochure may be an even lighter color of white or yellow.
- The racing stripe on the kickpanel on my model is under the silver accelerator
runners on the right, not on the left as in the brochure.
- My cabinet had a black frame for the glass, the brochure shows a silver liner?
- My cabinet has a full enclosure over the accelerator, the brochure
shows no enclosure and other pictures I have seen show only an open enclosure.
- My steering wheel was missing the horn button shown in the brochure
If you are looking for replacement bulbs see donsbulbs.com or
you can go to radio shack and get the smaller ones for pennies. There are two types, the #44 and #47, both fit but the #44 is hotter and will damage the paint on the glass. The #47 is not as bright but is also cooler.
The projector bulb
should be replacable by a 6volt car taillight type bulb(not a 12v it will not work) or
any similar hack of 32 candle power(MSCP:32) or you may find it easier to locate
a 6volt with 2 tips on the bottom, just file one down flat(preferably
the lower intensity one) and cover it up with something non conductive, then carefully solder a larger base in the center or
a small loop of wire to make contact in the projector socket. The 2 to 1 hack is
what I had to do. I tried a 12v single tip but it would not light up and only
the 2 tip types were available locally. I didnt really want to
mail order a 50 cent bulb and pay $20 to have it overnighted to me(I'm impatient). You
can find specs on the bulbs at dontsbulbs.com. All bulbs are actually powered by 6 volts AC.
Did you think force feedback was something new? This game from 1969 has a force feedback steering
wheel and it jumps with a loud rumble every time you have an accident.
The glass painting was falling apart. I had to be very careful with what was left to
keep it from flaking off. I touched up the largest places with model paint
and then sealed the flaking paint using large lamination sheets. Not the best method
but it will keep any more paint from flaking off. Hopefully it
will not be a problem with the incandescent lights behind it. There are a number of sites on the internet including at marvin3m.com with info on touching up pinball backglasses. The same techniques apply here.
I did not want to alter the cabinet or wiring if it was not absolutely
necessary but I did need a coin button. I added a simple switch mounted
in contact with the coin return mechanism so anytime the coin return button
is pushed it is the same as a credit now and no holes were drilled.
This was the foot panel during restoration
I added the caster, I like for my cabinets to be mobile
This is the foot panel after. You can see a little
bad wood because it was so badly warped but if you are
not laying on the floor it looks fine.
During the Restoration
During the restoration, after painting
You can see my Empire Strikes Back in the background
After the restoration
This picture is terrible but I could not get a
good shot of the screen. It is projected through
a translucent peice of plastic onto a mirror.
I discovered you can cheat at the game by inserting a peice of paper between the fingers
for the red car contacts, then you never have an accident.
The final cabinet turned out pretty well and I now have a real appreciation for EM games.